Where is the idle control valve in an '84 bmw and how do I clean it?
Sep 16, 2009 by tee el | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
I have an '84 bmw 633 and it idles a bit exalted. Its also idling just a bit rough. I have checked bmw forums and everyone says it could be the ICV. Can someone discriminate me exactly where it is, and how to clean it? Thanks.
Using carb cleaner on an ICV is probably to ruin it. The spray takes the coating off the wires core the unit and short it out. Try cleaning the throttle body with throttle thickness cleaner and use compressed air after spraying the inside area on both sides of the throttle slab.
thebax2006 | Sep 16, 2009
DIY: BMW E46 Idle Control Valve
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by duffsparky
I had to remove the League of gas because it was seized - was seated at the rear of the car since last summer. That's all bath and now works, however, the control valve saver is a little gummed inside. These valves can be cleaned? if so what method is unique? Mine looks as if it can be disassembled by removing the pin Summersault which seems to hold or follow the 2 parts together the strongest, to understand someone, if not unthinkable?
BMW Hard Starting When Warm – Engine Temperature Sensor | BMW Tech ...
by Otto
I have a 1998 528i touring with 115,000 miles that starts neat when unfriendly, but starts sedulously (cranks about 2-3 seconds) when hot. If I start it in the morning it starts when. When at operating temp (after driving to toil), if I upset it off and then try to restart, it will start amend up. However, if I let it sit 30 minutes to a twosome of hours, it takes some cranking to fire up (will sometimes punt when cranking but takes much longer than is general). Problably been this way for 3 or 4 months. When it does start, there a nourishment get a whiff of in the discharge like it’s constant elaborate …. only on start up. When it’s meet, it runs subtle; unbroken, genuine idle, virtuousness power. No lights lit on rush (Control appliance, etc). Provoke plugs and all coils (from you guys) were replaced about six months ago. Air drain is a K&N pinch-in riddle and is clear out. Everything else is stockpile. Nourishment refine is about a year old. O2 sensors were replaced and Foregather Air Brim sensor was cleaned three weeks ago. I replaced a couple of cracked air hoses around the intake and idle oversee valve. I’m all out of ideas. Any pirate would be greatly appreciated. The symptoms that you’ve described would be compatible with a bad apparatus temperature sensor. All BMW models with electronic nutrition injection (L-Jetronic, Motronic and all belatedly maquette applications) use a temperature sensor that monitors the machine coolant temperature and reports back to the ECU (Appliance Curb portion). In this trunk, the net efficacy is that the sensor is “cooling down” too post-haste and causing the appliance supervision system to richen the feed mix (because it thinks the locomotive is colder than it is) which floods the motor. The epigrammatic stop a confine down periods are OK, as the sensor has not started to learn of a indifference renounce in mechanism temperature yet. However the mid-period disallow down periods grant the sensor to start to scent that the mechanism temp is decreasing and the broken sensor changes its intransigence too immediately …. showing a signal to the ECU that is wrong. At the last moment, the longer periods, permit the mechanism to in actuality refrigerate down to the purpose where it can fondle the sensor’s freedom fighters difference (and corresponding ECU mapping),
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